Lynden Siding Why Custer's Location Is Hard on Siding
Custer sits in the part of Whatcom County that catches the worst of what the coast has to offer. You're close enough to saltwater to get salt-laden air working on your siding year-round, and far enough into the Pacific Northwest's wet belt that driving rain off the water is a regular guest, not an occasional storm. Add in the shade and dampness that keep moss going strong for most of the year, and you've got a combination that wears out the wrong siding material faster than homeowners expect.
None of this means Custer is a bad place to own a home — it means the siding has to be chosen and installed with these conditions in mind from day one. A product and installation method that works fine in a dry inland climate can fail here well before its time, and the failure is usually slow enough that homeowners don't notice until the damage is already behind the wall.
What "Correct" Siding Installation Means Here
Siding installation isn't just nailing boards to a wall. In a climate like Custer's, the parts you can't see after the job is done matter more than the parts you can. A correct install accounts for where water will go, how the wall will dry out after it gets wet, and how salt-bearing air will interact with every fastener and seam over the next several decades.
The Weather Barrier and Drainage Plane
Behind the siding, a properly lapped weather-resistant barrier gives water a path down and out instead of into the wall assembly. In a low-rain climate this can sometimes get shortcuts and still hold up for a while. In Custer, with driving rain pushed sideways by wind off the water, gaps or poor laps in that barrier turn into active leak points within a few wet seasons.
Rainscreen Gap
A small airspace between the back of the siding and the weather barrier — created with vertical furring strips — lets bulk water drain and lets the wall breathe and dry between storms. On a coastal-influenced property that sees frequent wet weather, this gap is the difference between a wall that dries out between rain events and one that stays damp long enough to invite rot and mold.
Flashing at Every Penetration
Windows, doors, hose bibs, light fixtures, deck ledgers — every point where something interrupts the siding needs flashing detailed to shed water down and away, not just caulk smeared over the gap. Caulk is a backup, not a strategy, and it's the first thing salt air and UV break down.
Fastening for Coastal Exposure
Fastener choice and placement matter more here than in drier inland areas. Corrosion-resistant fasteners, correct nailing patterns per the manufacturer's specification, and proper blind-nailing where the product calls for it all keep the siding performing as designed instead of working loose or staining over time.
Why We Install Only James Hardie Fiber Cement
We standardized on James Hardie fiber cement siding and don't install vinyl, LP SmartSide, Cemplank, Allura, primed spruce, or cedar. That's not a marketing position — it's a decision built around what actually holds up in Whatcom County's coastal-influenced weather. Fiber cement is non-combustible, dimensionally stable, and doesn't feed the moisture-related problems that wood-based and engineered-wood sidings can develop when they stay damp for long stretches. James Hardie's ColorPlus factory finish is baked on and warranted separately from the substrate, which matters in an area where UV and salt exposure are both working against paint film year-round.
James Hardie's HZ5 product line is engineered specifically for climates with more moisture cycling and freeze-thaw exposure — a good match for what Custer sees. We'd rather stand behind one product system we know inside and out than offer several and hope each one performs.
Our Installation Process
Every job follows the same sequence, whether it's a small addition or a full re-side:
- Inspection and tear-off. We remove the old siding down to the sheathing and inspect for hidden moisture damage, soft spots, or rot — common on older Custer homes that have taken decades of coastal weather.
- Sheathing repair. Any damaged sheathing gets replaced before anything else happens. Installing new siding over compromised sheathing just hides a problem that will resurface.
- Weather-resistant barrier. A new barrier is installed and lapped correctly, shingle-style, so every seam sheds water downward.
- Flashing. Windows, doors, and all penetrations get flashed before the rainscreen goes up.
- Rainscreen furring. Vertical strips create the drainage and drying gap behind the siding.
- Hardie installation. Panels, planks, or shingles are installed to James Hardie's fastening and clearance specifications — including the ground clearance and gutter clearance that keep splash-back and roof runoff away from the bottom courses.
- Trim, caulking, and touch-up. Factory-finished trim goes in, seams are sealed with a product rated for the exposure, and any factory-finish touch-up is done with matched paint.
- Final walkthrough. We walk the job with the homeowner before calling it done.
Comparing Siding Options in a Coastal-Influenced Climate
Homeowners in Custer often ask how James Hardie stacks up against the other materials they've seen elsewhere. Here's an honest comparison focused specifically on how each performs under salt air, driving rain, and extended moss season:
| Material | Moisture Behavior | Salt Air / Coastal Exposure | Moss & Algae Resistance | Finish Longevity |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| James Hardie Fiber Cement | Dimensionally stable, doesn't swell or rot | Non-combustible, holds up well; fasteners are the main corrosion point to manage | Resists moisture uptake that feeds growth; needs periodic washing like any siding | ColorPlus factory finish, separately warranted |
| Vinyl | Doesn't rot but can warp, crack, or fade with sun and temperature swings | Can become brittle over time; seams and J-channels are leak-prone | Growth sits on the surface; can trap moisture behind panels at poor installs | Color is through-body but fades; not repaintable without prep |
| LP SmartSide / Engineered Wood | Wood-based core is sensitive to sustained moisture exposure | Edge and cut-end sealing becomes critical near salt air | More moisture-sensitive substrate can be more forgiving of surface growth but less forgiving of prolonged dampness | Factory finish varies; edges need field treatment |
| Cedar / Primed Spruce | Natural wood; absorbs and releases moisture constantly | Salt accelerates weathering of the wood and finish | Most prone to moss and algae without regular maintenance | Requires ongoing staining/painting maintenance |
This isn't a knock on every other product across the board — vinyl and engineered wood siding both have legitimate uses and can perform reasonably in the right conditions with the right install. It's why, specifically in a climate like Custer's, we'd rather put our name behind fiber cement.
What Drives Cost on a Custer Siding Job
Every home is different, but the same handful of factors move the price up or down on most jobs we quote in this area:
| Factor | Why It Matters |
|---|---|
| Condition of existing sheathing | Hidden rot from years of coastal moisture means repair work before new siding can go on |
| Home size and wall complexity | More corners, dormers, and trim details mean more labor and material cuts |
| Siding profile chosen | Lap siding, shingle-style, and panel systems all price differently in materials and labor |
| Trim and accent work | Factory-finished trim boards, fascia, and accent details add scope |
| Access and site conditions | Tight lots, tall walls, or landscaping close to the house can add setup time |
Signs Your Current Siding Is Already Losing the Fight
Coastal-influenced weather rarely destroys siding all at once — it works slowly, and the signs are easy to miss until the damage is significant. Walk your exterior and look for:
- Persistent moss or dark streaking that returns quickly after cleaning
- Soft or spongy spots when you press on siding, especially near the bottom courses
- Paint that's peeling, bubbling, or chalking heavily on one side of the house
- Visible gaps, warping, or buckling in panels or planks
- Staining below windows, hose bibs, or other penetrations
- A musty smell near exterior walls inside the home
- Fastener heads that are rusting, popping, or staining the siding around them
Any one of these on its own isn't necessarily an emergency, but a couple together usually means water has been getting behind the siding for a while.
Keeping Siding Performing After Installation
Even the right product installed correctly still needs a small amount of upkeep in Custer's climate. A yearly rinse-down keeps salt film and organic buildup from settling in, especially on north- and shade-facing walls where moss takes hold fastest. Keep gutters clear so water isn't overflowing onto the siding below, and trim back vegetation that's shading a wall and keeping it damp longer than it should stay. None of this is heavy maintenance — it's the kind of light attention that lets a correctly installed fiber cement system reach its full lifespan instead of fighting an uphill battle from year one.
Why Hiring a Crew That Already Works This Area Matters
Siding installation done to a manufacturer's specification on paper doesn't automatically translate to a job that performs in Custer's actual weather. A crew that's installed siding across Whatcom County knows where driving rain tends to find weak spots on a given wall orientation, how much rainscreen gap actually matters this close to the water, and which flashing details get skipped by installers who mostly work drier inland jobs. That local pattern recognition is the difference between a siding job that looks right at handoff and one that still looks right ten winters later.
If you're weighing a re-side or dealing with siding that's already showing wear, we're happy to take a look and walk you through what we're seeing — no pressure, no obligation. Reach out for a free estimate using the form below.